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0:00
Hello,
my name is Dr. Zoe Diana Draelos.
I'm a consulting professor
in the Department
of Dermatology at Duke
University School of Medicine.
It is my pleasure to talk
to you about the science
of cosmeceuticals.
Many individuals do, indeed, believe
that cosmeceuticals lack science,
but new technological developments
and a better understanding of skin
physiology has lent
credibility to this previously
uncredible area of cosmeceuticals.
The word, cosmeceuticals, is
interesting in and of itself.
It's a contraction
of the word cosmetic
with the word pharmaceuticals.
Cosmeceuticals was named
by Dr. Albert Kligman
as a way of demonstrating
that topical agents could have
profound effects on skin physiology.
This is the area of
dermatology and medicine
that we're going to explore
over the next several minutes.
0:50
Many cosmeceuticals
are, indeed, creams.
And the goal of the cosmeceutical
is to find a cream that will take
aging skin and make
it look more youthful.
All cosmeceuticals
creams are basically
trying to find or
pursue youthful skin.
1:07
In order to better understand
what cosmeceuticals do,
we need to delve into
the most important
aspects of skincare ingredients.
In other words, if you're
going to develop a product that
is an active cosmeceuticals,
what exactly should it contain?
1:24
All active ingredients are designed
to enhance skin functioning.
It's a little bit of a different
challenge when we're talking about
topical agents as
compared to oral agents
because topical agents have to
penetrate the skin barrier, which
is formed by the stratum corneum.
This is a huge hurdle,
and in many instances
impedes the active functioning
of cosmeceutical agents.
Thus any active
agent that's designed
to impact the skin in a
cosmeceuticals fashion
must penetrate the skin barrier.