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Printable Handouts
Navigable Slide Index
- Introduction
- Creams and the pursuit of youthful skin
- The most important skin care ingredients
- Active ingredients enhance skin functioning
- The skin and active ingredients: moisturization
- Moisturization and anti-aging
- Photoprotection and anti-aging
- Sunscreens
- Melanin DNA protection
- Melanin and anti-aging
- UV radiation induces pyrimidine dimers
- DNA damage, p53 activation and apoptosis
- DNA damage and aging
- Melanin antioxidant failure: apoptotic cell
- Sun protection and anti-aging
- Sunscreens, DNA damage and comet assay
- The skin and active ingredients: antioxidants
- Antioxidants
- Skin vitamin antioxidants (1)
- Diet and antioxidant defenses
- Assessing topical antioxidant efficacy
- Antioxidant capacity
- ORAC scale
- Assessing antioxidants
- ROS and oxidative stress
- Inflam-aging: a cosmeceutical target
- 2 types of inflam-aging
- Alphabet vitamins: A, B, C, D, E, F
- Vitamin A: carotenoids
- Carotenoids: tertiary antioxidant
- Retinol activity
- Topical retinol
- Cosmeceutical retinol
- Vitamin B: niacinamide
- Niacinamide derivatives
- Vitamin C: ascorbic acid
- Vitamin C: secondary antioxidant
- Vitamin C: prevents antioxidant chain reaction
- Vitamin C and pigmentation
- Vitamin C and the skin
- Vitamin D and skin (1)
- Vitamin D and skin (2)
- Vitamin E: primary antioxidant
- Skin vitamin antioxidants (2)
- Vitamin E: antioxidants and skin aging
- Vitamin E and oxidative protection
- Oral vs. topical vitamin E
- Vitamin F: essential fatty acids
- Essential fatty acids: linolenic and linoleic acids
- Linolenic omega-3
- Linoleic omega-6
- Summary: cosmeceutical science
Topics Covered
- The science of enhanced cosmeceutical development
- Skin care ingredients and the key to moisturization efficacy
- The importance of sunscreens in preventing DNA damage and aging
- Vitamins and other antioxidants as a mean to quench reactive oxygen species resulting from UV exposure (Inflam-aging, Alphabet vitamins, Carotenoids, Retinol, Niacinamide, Linolenic and linoleic acids)
- The differences between oral consumption and topical application
Talk Citation
Draelos, Z. (2014, May 4). The science of cosmeceuticals [Video file]. In The Biomedical & Life Sciences Collection, Henry Stewart Talks. Retrieved October 11, 2024, from https://doi.org/10.69645/SATL3675.Export Citation (RIS)
Publication History
Financial Disclosures
- There are no commercial/financial matters to disclose.
A selection of talks on Pharmaceutical Sciences
Transcript
Please wait while the transcript is being prepared...
0:00
Hello,
my name is Dr. Zoe Diana Draelos.
I'm a consulting professor
in the Department
of Dermatology at Duke
University School of Medicine.
It is my pleasure to talk
to you about the science
of cosmeceuticals.
Many individuals do, indeed, believe
that cosmeceuticals lack science,
but new technological developments
and a better understanding of skin
physiology has lent
credibility to this previously
uncredible area of cosmeceuticals.
The word, cosmeceuticals, is
interesting in and of itself.
It's a contraction
of the word cosmetic
with the word pharmaceuticals.
Cosmeceuticals was named
by Dr. Albert Kligman
as a way of demonstrating
that topical agents could have
profound effects on skin physiology.
This is the area of
dermatology and medicine
that we're going to explore
over the next several minutes.
0:50
Many cosmeceuticals
are, indeed, creams.
And the goal of the cosmeceutical
is to find a cream that will take
aging skin and make
it look more youthful.
All cosmeceuticals
creams are basically
trying to find or
pursue youthful skin.
1:07
In order to better understand
what cosmeceuticals do,
we need to delve into
the most important
aspects of skincare ingredients.
In other words, if you're
going to develop a product that
is an active cosmeceuticals,
what exactly should it contain?
1:24
All active ingredients are designed
to enhance skin functioning.
It's a little bit of a different
challenge when we're talking about
topical agents as
compared to oral agents
because topical agents have to
penetrate the skin barrier, which
is formed by the stratum corneum.
This is a huge hurdle,
and in many instances
impedes the active functioning
of cosmeceutical agents.
Thus any active
agent that's designed
to impact the skin in a
cosmeceuticals fashion
must penetrate the skin barrier.